Oil for Safety Lamp

[onotoman]

SL was delivered this morning and the Platinum Wire is missing (to be expected I suppose) - Platinum wire is expensive (£10 per 10mm) so I'm wondering whether I could strip down a Toaster Element for wire?

Also (probably a question for Shropshirebloke or Inbye) - how close does the wire need to be to the wick - the original must be shaped as just stringing the wire between the two poles would mean that the wire would be about 6mm away from the wick?

[shropshirebloke]

I'll have a look at mine when I get home and let you know - as far as I can remember it's an "omega" shape if that makes sense.

Your toaster element sounds like a good idea!

[dazbt]

Not being of an electrical background I can only guess, but surely a toaster element, even a short length would need a pretty high current input to heat it up to glowing. There might be something adaptable in a battery operated gas stove wand (lighter) though.

[onotoman]

Hi Dazbt,

The toaster element wire I was thinking of is around the same thickness as the platinum wire from the SL (what's left of it anyway) so hopefully it'll work.

Not sure where to put the positive/negative terminals of the power supply though - presumably one to the base of the lamp and one to the stainless steel band next to the glass?

[John]

May 12, 2011 11:34:23 GMT -5 dazbt said:

Not being of an electrical background I can only guess, but surely a toaster element, even a short length would need a pretty high current input to heat it up to glowing. There might be something adaptable in a battery operated gas stove wand (lighter) though.

All the ones I've seen over the last 30 years have been those piezo type Daz, no elements in them at all, all done by "squeezing a piece of quartz and producing a high voltage to ignite the gas.

[John]

Not really sure if toaster element would work, but give it a try, "nowt to lose"..

[dazbt]

Here's an interesting link to low amp wire element materials, only had a quick glance at it but it might well lead you on to finding what you need if the toaster experiment doesn't provide the answer.
The prices are US$ but don't seem expensive at all.
www.aeroconsystems.com/electronics/nichrome.htm#40

[onotoman]

Thanks Dazbt

I also asked David Mather at Protector Lamps and he said that fuse wire works fine too.

[dazbt]

May 12, 2011 12:58:33 GMT -5 onotoman said:

Thanks Dazbt

I also asked David Mather at Protector Lamps and he said that fuse wire works fine too.

Brilliant ............... that saves a toaster and maintains stability of the world spot price on platinum

[shropshirebloke]

Just got home and had a look at both my SL's. The element is about 2mm above the brass collar round the wick, and looking from above is about half way across the inner and outer diameters. I hope that makes sense.....!

As far as the actual wire is concerned I wouldn't be too worried - it's not as though you're going to fry the SL's delicate electronic circuits. Obviously the thinner the wire the higher the temperature for a given voltage - let us know how you get on and what voltage/current you use.

I only light my lamps occasionally - the old ones are fine with "lamp oil" (paraffin). The Protectors, electric or spark, will work with lighter fuel, but even better with 1/3 each paraffin, petrol and pure alcohol (printer's isopropanol, or IPA).

[onotoman]

Hi Guys,

I've just about finished restoring the Type 6 now - I say 'restore' but it looks to have been unused and only needed the fuel cover rivet that I broke and a flint and a general clean up - It's now ready to go.

I have some 'Coleman Fuel' which is supposed to be good for Protectors, so I'll give that a try and if not up to scratch I'll try Shropshirebloke's mixture.

Then it's on to the SL which is in a well-used state of repair.

I'll post some pics of the Type 6 too.

[John]

After you have "fueled" the lamp, let it stand for about half an hour, then drain excess fuel out before trying to light it.

You may also have to blow into the bonnet to clear fuel vapour, if it is still hard to light, grasp the lamp by the base and "swing" it back and forth briskly.
No not pulling your leg, every good Deputy had to "swing" his lamp now and then to clean oil vapour out to relight his lamp.

[onotoman]

Thanks John,

I'll give that a try. Presumably with the Type 6 and the SL, it looks like I'll need a small funnel or large Syringe with some rubber hose to fill the lamp reservoir?

May 13, 2011 8:51:44 GMT -5 John said:

After you have "fueled" the lamp, let it stand for about half an hour, then drain excess fuel out before trying to light it.

You may also have to blow into the bonnet to clear fuel vapour, if it is still hard to light, grasp the lamp by the base and "swing" it back and forth briskly.
No not pulling your leg, every good Deputy had to "swing" his lamp now and then to clean oil vapour out to relight his lamp.

[John]

May 13, 2011 12:11:30 GMT -5 onotoman said:

Thanks John,

I'll give that a try. Presumably with the Type 6 and the SL, it looks like I'll need a small funnel or large Syringe with some rubber hose to fill the lamp reservoir?

May 13, 2011 8:51:44 GMT -5 John said:

After you have "fueled" the lamp, let it stand for about half an hour, then drain excess fuel out before trying to light it.

You may also have to blow into the bonnet to clear fuel vapour, if it is still hard to light, grasp the lamp by the base and "swing" it back and forth briskly.
No not pulling your leg, every good Deputy had to "swing" his lamp now and then to clean oil vapour out to relight his lamp.

You can use a rubber bulb as a refueling tool, something like the ones used to suck baby's mucous from around their noses when they have a cold.
We used to have a large purpose made can with a small tap that had a "long nose" that fitted the refill hole perfect.

[shropshirebloke]

What you need is a "wash bottle" - plastic (but resistant to just about everything), with an angled spout - cheap as chips.

They look like this: tinyurl.com/6yhzvgd

[onotoman]

Thanks guys,

I've bought a Wash Bottle on Ebay for £4 including delivery :-)

Back to the SL Lamp - Does anyone know where the lighting electrodes need to be placed when lighting the lamp - is it:

Negative to Lamp Base
Positive to Chrome Ring around base of glass ?

[dazbt]

"its approx 4 volts applied accross the vessel and the glass plate.
you need to make sure all the insulating washers are intact. you can use thin fuse wire in place of the platinum wire.
lamp oil will probably not light with low volt\age.most paraffin lamps used high voltage.
petrol or lighter fuel with a low flash point is best.
good luck.
david"
I found this reply from David Mathers on a Q&A site here;
www.protectorlamp.com/blog/2006/10/slworkmans-lamp-lighting.html

[shropshirebloke]

May 14, 2011 3:45:50 GMT -5 onotoman said:

Back to the SL Lamp - Does anyone know where the lighting electrodes need to be placed when lighting the lamp - is it:

Negative to Lamp Base
Positive to Chrome Ring around base of glass ?

Thanks Daz for the voltage/fuse wire info!

As for polarity - it doesn't matter - either way works just as well.

[onotoman]

Hi Guys,

I've been working on the SL and I think there must be some insulation washers missing as I can't get any resistance across the lighter wire.

I can't see any insulation washers at all - anyone have any idea where they should be?

[shropshirebloke]

I'll have a look at one of mine when I get home - should be about 7.30pm ish (sorry but I don't miss my teatime pint or three for anyone!!!).

[inbye]

May 17, 2011 6:58:41 GMT -5 onotoman said:

Hi Guys,

I've been working on the SL and I think there must be some insulation washers missing as I can't get any resistance across the lighter wire.

I can't see any insulation washers at all - anyone have any idea where they should be?

The chrome/stainless glassplate needs to be insulated from the rest of the lamp, to give a circuit thro' the platinum wire. There should be a large fibre washer, underneath it. A temporary one made up from cardboard, should allow you to fault find...

[onotoman]

No problem at all - enjoy your pint(s)

May 17, 2011 11:23:08 GMT -5 shropshirebloke said:

I'll have a look at one of mine when I get home - should be about 7.30pm ish (sorry but I don't miss my teatime pint or three for anyone!!!).

[onotoman]

Thanks Inbye,

Of course, that would make sense as the screw holding one of the terminals is countersunk into the stainless steel ring - so if this ring is insulated from the rest of the lamp that terminal will only be connected to the rest of the lamp vi the thin wire.

I'll make something up now :-)

May 17, 2011 13:11:25 GMT -5 inbye said:

May 17, 2011 6:58:41 GMT -5 onotoman said:

Hi Guys,

I've been working on the SL and I think there must be some insulation washers missing as I can't get any resistance across the lighter wire.

I can't see any insulation washers at all - anyone have any idea where they should be?

The chrome/stainless glassplate needs to be insulated from the rest of the lamp, to give a circuit thro' the platinum wire. There should be a large fibre washer, underneath it. A temporary one made up from cardboard, should allow you to fault find...

[shropshirebloke]

Had a look at it now - Inbye's right about the large washer under the lower glass ring. The right hand "post" should also be insulated where it passes through the plate, as it provides the opposite polarity from the base of the lamp. Both mine have got a red fibre washer visible at the base.

I hope this makes sense but you're on the home straight now!

[shropshirebloke]

...just wondering how it went - have you got it lighting yet?

[onotoman]

Hi Shropshirebloke,

Thanks for asking.

I'm still looking around for something to use to make the insulating gasket between the Stainless steel glass holder and the base.

I didn't want to use rubber as presumably this would get too hot and burn, as would card. I did have some fibre gasket material from my days at Huwood, but I'm still hunting for it.

Failing that I'm sure there'll be something on Ebay :-)

May 19, 2011 14:08:14 GMT -5 shropshirebloke said:

...just wondering how it went - have you got it lighting yet?

[shropshirebloke]

You should be OK with a fairly heavy dense card - the base of the glass cage shouldn't get that hot in normal use - card won't burn below 400+ degrees F. At least it would last long enough for you to check the electrical side. My thoughts would be try a local pneumatic/hydraulic parts supplier for a suitable sized fibre washer.

Either way I'm sure you'll work something out - best of luck!!

[timberlad]

When i was in the lamp room at nostell we used to use a white asbestos washer for the bottom one then they changed to a asbestos compound one which is relatively safe as it does not break up and crumble, i shudder to think what damage has been done to my health cleaning the lamp inner and outer gauzes, glass and the base on a brush buffer with all the dust from the asbestos washers and never wearing a dust mask.
I found this site that may be of use

www.thewandofscience.net/spare%20parts%205-07.pdf

Graham

[timberlad]

also you might want to take a look here
www.protectorlamp.com/

click on Products and there you will see 2 washers for £5
hope it helps
Graham

[Wheldale]

I bought on ebay a sheet of material that is used for making gaskets in engines. I made glass washers for a few lamps out of this. I reckon this type of stuff could be used to make the washer that is required for the SL lamp. It should act as a insulator and be heat resistant.