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Post by Wheldale on Jan 19, 2012 13:56:01 GMT -5
Not strictly a mining question but here goes! I've got a oak table that needs a light rub down and oiling (any pit joiners on here?) Is wire wool ok to use or is sand paper the best thing to use prior to oiling? Any one got any experience on this kind of thing?
Cheers all!
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Post by dazbt on Jan 19, 2012 14:14:34 GMT -5
Not strictly a mining question but here goes! I've got a oak table that needs a light rub down and oiling (any pit joiners on here?) Is wire wool ok to use or is sand paper the best thing to use prior to oiling? Any one got any experience on this kind of thing? Cheers all! Short answer ......... never use wire wool on oak, long answer, iron reacts with the tannin (tannic acid) within oak and produces a blue black stain. Some people consider this a feature in antique oak beams where old iron nails produce a blackened localised patch. Iron 'soaked' in water, mild acid such as vinegar is used as an oak stain. Using wire wool on oak will leave small steel particles within the grain that won't show up initially but would result in nasty blue/black streaks that develop later, the same applies to a lesser degree if wire wool is used on some other woods such as Yew ................ don't use (steel) wire wool !! |
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Post by John on Jan 19, 2012 14:15:18 GMT -5
Not strictly a mining question but here goes! I've got a oak table that needs a light rub down and oiling (any pit joiners on here?) Is wire wool ok to use or is sand paper the best thing to use prior to oiling? Any one got any experience on this kind of thing? Cheers all!
DON'T use wire wool!!! You will always leave fragments behind and after you have applied water based poly finishes, the fragments will start to rust.
I always use sandpaper working from 80 grit down through several grits to finish with 220 grit.
I've had some good finishes, take your time, after the last sanding it should be as smooth as a baby's bottie! ;D BEFORE, applying a finish, wipe the surfaces down with a none lint rag with some white spirits to remove fine dust. If you use oil based poly, "water it down" with white spirits for the first couple of coats, making sure to sand with fine grit "worn out" sandpaper to remove high spots.
Make sure you leave plenty of time between coats!!
With water based finishes, I always rub back gently with worn out sand paper to remove high spots.
Three to four coats are what I use.
I have some real old rough sawn Red Oak, that's over 60 years old I'll be machining into face frames and raised panel doors for kitchen cabinets and bathroom cabinets probably during summer.
This wood is from an old barn on my place, some boards are 10-12 inches wide by one inch thick!! |
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Post by John on Jan 19, 2012 14:16:47 GMT -5
You beat me to it Daz... ;D
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Post by Wheldale on Jan 19, 2012 14:44:11 GMT -5
Cheers John and Daz, little project for when the weather gets warmer. I've not really done any wood work before although I did recently make a bench at work. I'm more of a wood butcher! lol
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Post by erichall on Jul 30, 2012 4:36:54 GMT -5
far from being a joiner r even a cabinet maker, but one of my favourite items to use during sanding is the 'wet and dry' glass paper which can be bought at any DIY store.
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